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Frequently
Asked
Questions
FAQ
Do you have plans for the cross cut sled for cutting segments?
I don't have plans per say. The basic idea came from Kevin's Woodturnings at: http://turnedwood.com/
He is a good source for ideas on segmented turning.
My latest sled has stops at fequentley used angles to make it more versatile.
The original sled is set at 15 degrees. ( 12 segments )
The stops are ecentric disks that can be rotated to change the stop pin location to calibrate the fence angle.
The plastic indicator over the self adhesive rule ( Rockler ) was made of polycarbonate and scribed on the back side with an awl. I then rubbed red paint onto it and wiped off the excess. This makes a nice hairline to get repeatable adjustments.
There is a very good book by Malcolm Tibbetts called "The art of Segmented Turning".
He goes into a ton of detail on how he made jigs used to make his marvelous creations.
Do you have plans for the thickness sander used in your video?
Here are a few sanders that are on the web.
The first link is for the one I built. I have found several more since I built mine.
It sure makes bowl construction go a lot faster.
Do you have plans for your Turning Cabinet.
Yes, well sort of.
You can see what I used to build it.
So Larry, What was the " Favorite Tip" in the Tips&Tricks section of the January 2006 issue of Woodcraft Magazine?
The Tip was for sawing veneer layers for segmented bowls. There are a few ways to glue up veneers into a ring, but I find most to be a bit cumbersome and time consuming. My suggestion was to glue up the veneer layer as a ¾" thick ring and then stand it on end and Resaw it on a bandsaw. Cutting round objects can be dangerous because the wood is not supported where the blade exits. Using turners tape to hold the ring against an "L" shaped sled allows you to push the ring through the blade without the risk of it catching and damaging the veneer and more importantly, not risking injury. You can see me using this technique in the "Laguna Beach Vase" video.
Malcolm Tibbetts has a book Titled " The Art of Segmented Wood Turning".
In this book he is basically doing the same thing using a tablesaw by making several passes and rotating the ring each time.
Now, here is how to set up the bandsaw:
Set the table at 90 degrees to the blade.
Track the blade and take a slip stone to the weld to ensure it is as smooth as the rest of the blade.
Set the guides as close as practical to the blade.
Set the fence about an inch away from the blade and run a piece a flat stock on the table and against the fence.
Cut into the stock about two inches and shut off the saw.
With the blade stopped and still in the kerf you just cut, look at the back of the blade and see if it is centered in the cut.
If the back of the blade is touching the side of the kerf, you need to change the angle of the fence to get it back in the center.
Make another cut and see if the blade is cutting centered in the kerf. If it is not, continue to change the angle until it is.
The fence must also be 90 degrees to the table, making it parallel to the blade.
Adjust the fence for the thickness of the cut you want to make and you are ready to go.
Keep pressure on the wood down and toward the fence and feed in a continuous motion.
Position your hands so if the wood were to quickly move forward your finders will not move into the blade.
If you are cutting very thin veneers, you can cut on the side of the wood away from the fence, or add a sacrificial fence that, when cut by accident, will not make you want to cry.
How about the pattern on the Cherry Southwest Bowl?
This was done by making a checkerboard and then cutting it on the diagonal to make the segments.
Gluing up the feature layer on a straight surface with a backstop would be better if you need to keep the complete triangle in the pattern.
Any dimensions on the Christmas ornament?
The original block was a little over 3", but this is not critical.
The length was about 8" to start. Also not critical, just make it long enough.
Curtis Fuller's tutorial is very helpful for this.
He recommends only removing 2/3 of the depth to the center, or on a 3" width
2/3 of the way to the center would be 1".
I went a little closer, to within about ¼".
If you want the ornament to be round, use a compass to measure the desired depth and mark a radius, this will give you the width of the cut.
A wider width will give you an elongated shape.
I made a template to the same radius so I could ensure the final piece would be round.
Since you are cutting from one block, it is best to re-assemble the block to the original orientation.
This makes it look cleaner and will get people asking how this is possible.
To do this, mark and number the outside corners on one end before ripping into squares.
When you re-glue, bring the corners to the center. "turning the inside"
When you finish the interior, reassemble the block with corners in the original position.
What you do not see on the video, is every joint is sanded on a belt sander prior to assembling in order to get the best possible glue joint.
It is also very important to glue up very accurately, and mount exactly on center to get the most balanced looking piece.
Make sure the glue has completely cured in the final turning, and that you are careful not to place too much pressure on the glue joint when mounting between centers. A cup live center is desirable.
Keep a light touch with a firm grip. Use a back light to see the shadow of the edge in the open section.
Have fun.
Who does the music on your videos?
The music is by Kevin MacLeod.
He is a member of a Scottish Ceilidh band, The Occasionals. He offers some music Royalty free, on the condition that he receives credit for it. For more info about Kevin, go here:
His music site is:
When are you going to remember to empty the sawdust out of your pockets before putting your clothing in the laundry?
Next time. I promise.